Kill Rock ’n Roll or 5 Days in Armenia
29.12.2021 Tbilisi – Vanadzor (163 km)
30.12.2021 Vanadzor – Yerevan (110 km)
31.12.2021 Strolling in Yerevan
01.01.2022 Yerevan – Sevan (65 km)
02.01.2022 Sevan – Tbilisi (237 km)
I thought for a long time about how I could travel to Armenia "with Serj Tankian," one of my favorite musicians. With some free time during the New Year holidays, I quickly prepared by visiting bike mechanics—essential to avoid any unexpected, unpleasant surprises. Preparing for a journey is one of my favorite rituals, and I dedicate a lot of time to it—planning the route, choosing accommodation, marking places to visit, taking safety measures, stocking up on medications, and so on. I eagerly awaited the moment when I could test myself on a new road, and that day finally arrived. On the morning of December 29, I set out early, hoping to welcome the New Year in Yerevan. For Georgians, no visa is required, only proof of vaccination. However, having visited Azerbaijan in 2020, I was still nervous about whether I would be allowed to cross the border. Thankfully, my worries were unfounded. I easily crossed the Sadakhlo border checkpoint and set out toward Vanadzor, 163 km from Tbilisi. From the border, a winding road through narrow valleys leads to Alaverdi, filled with strange shapes and structures. The border checkpoint at Sadakhlo is 500 meters above sea level, while Vanadzor is at 1,350 meters, meaning it’s a steady uphill climb.
I knew the road ahead would involve many climbs, followed by descents after Tsilkar. But I couldn’t have imagined the breathtaking view of Armenia’s snow-covered mountains at 2,165 meters, with endless open spaces glistening with sunlight on the ice…
After capturing this scene, the endless downhill ride began, along with the freezing of my limbs. Fortunately, a Yezidi girl named Alla invited me into her home, where I warmed up by the stove, drank hot tea, and listened to her stories. The warmth of that little house stayed with me throughout the journey to Yerevan. I had some boiled eggs with me for the road, and for the first time, I saw how they froze, filled with tiny crystals. Determined not to give up, I took a bite—they crunched like ice.
In Yerevan, I walked over 13 km, exploring the city. I saw Bike Sharing bicycles, which come in two types—green ones being particularly popular. As for bike lanes—they don’t have any. However, moving around the city isn’t difficult due to the many traffic lights, wide streets, and pedestrian crossings. I encountered many bike couriers with colorful backpacks. I also met cycling enthusiasts and wished I knew Armenian to have longer conversations with them.
On the evening of the 31st, my Yerevan tango friends invited me to a New Year’s gathering, where I experienced incredible Armenian hospitality. On January 1, I set out late for Sevan—a comfortable winter route with alternating climbs and descents, keeping the pace quick and warming me along the way. It was snowing, but the sun was shining. I was fine until the icy Sevan wind burned my cheeks. It was still light when my bike and I rolled into the frozen streets of Sevan. However, as soon as the sun disappeared, the temperature dropped rapidly. Google Maps showed many hotels marked as "Open," but when I tried booking, one was closed, then another, and another. Already freezing, I entered a pharmacy to endure the situation better. Luckily, I found that Hotel "Sevano" accepts guests in winter. It was just 600 meters away, but by the time I arrived, I was completely frozen. The street was icy, the roadside snow reached nearly knee-high, and it was dark. I couldn’t even see the main entrance and had to climb over the fence with my bike (you can hear the desperation in the video). The hosts at "Sevano," Vano and his wife, shared stories of their adventures in Tbilisi as I thawed my toes and fingers. That night, it was -8°C at Sevan, with a FeelsLike temperature of -12°C according to my app.
In the morning, I planned to reach Vanadzor, thinking the icy roads wouldn’t let me go farther. In Vanadzor, I decided to push to Alaverdi before dark. In Alaverdi, I felt like reaching the border, and from Sadakhlo, I thought, “Only 70 km left to Tbilisi.” This way, I rode 237 km on the fifth day. The most dangerous part of the journey was the road from Marneuli to Kvemo Teleti—narrow and filled with drivers overtaking recklessly despite the centerline, creating hazardous situations. I had to step off the road and dismount my bike several times to avoid danger. As for Armenia—I’ll definitely go back, and I recommend you visit too! You can experience this journey more vividly through the videos I recorded along the way. For my next trip, I must have a front camera—I missed capturing many amazing downhill moments:
30.12.2021 Vanadzor – Yerevan (110 km)
31.12.2021 Strolling in Yerevan
01.01.2022 Yerevan – Sevan (65 km)
02.01.2022 Sevan – Tbilisi (237 km)
I thought for a long time about how I could travel to Armenia "with Serj Tankian," one of my favorite musicians. With some free time during the New Year holidays, I quickly prepared by visiting bike mechanics—essential to avoid any unexpected, unpleasant surprises. Preparing for a journey is one of my favorite rituals, and I dedicate a lot of time to it—planning the route, choosing accommodation, marking places to visit, taking safety measures, stocking up on medications, and so on. I eagerly awaited the moment when I could test myself on a new road, and that day finally arrived. On the morning of December 29, I set out early, hoping to welcome the New Year in Yerevan. For Georgians, no visa is required, only proof of vaccination. However, having visited Azerbaijan in 2020, I was still nervous about whether I would be allowed to cross the border. Thankfully, my worries were unfounded. I easily crossed the Sadakhlo border checkpoint and set out toward Vanadzor, 163 km from Tbilisi. From the border, a winding road through narrow valleys leads to Alaverdi, filled with strange shapes and structures. The border checkpoint at Sadakhlo is 500 meters above sea level, while Vanadzor is at 1,350 meters, meaning it’s a steady uphill climb.
The hostel hosts, the people I spoke to along the way, and even the shop owners where I bought food were all incredibly kind to anyone coming from Tbilisi.
On the second day, I set out early, around 8 a.m. It was still cold—minus 4°C.
On the second day, I set out early, around 8 a.m. It was still cold—minus 4°C.
I knew the road ahead would involve many climbs, followed by descents after Tsilkar. But I couldn’t have imagined the breathtaking view of Armenia’s snow-covered mountains at 2,165 meters, with endless open spaces glistening with sunlight on the ice…
After capturing this scene, the endless downhill ride began, along with the freezing of my limbs. Fortunately, a Yezidi girl named Alla invited me into her home, where I warmed up by the stove, drank hot tea, and listened to her stories. The warmth of that little house stayed with me throughout the journey to Yerevan. I had some boiled eggs with me for the road, and for the first time, I saw how they froze, filled with tiny crystals. Determined not to give up, I took a bite—they crunched like ice.
In Yerevan, I walked over 13 km, exploring the city. I saw Bike Sharing bicycles, which come in two types—green ones being particularly popular. As for bike lanes—they don’t have any. However, moving around the city isn’t difficult due to the many traffic lights, wide streets, and pedestrian crossings. I encountered many bike couriers with colorful backpacks. I also met cycling enthusiasts and wished I knew Armenian to have longer conversations with them.
On the evening of the 31st, my Yerevan tango friends invited me to a New Year’s gathering, where I experienced incredible Armenian hospitality. On January 1, I set out late for Sevan—a comfortable winter route with alternating climbs and descents, keeping the pace quick and warming me along the way. It was snowing, but the sun was shining. I was fine until the icy Sevan wind burned my cheeks. It was still light when my bike and I rolled into the frozen streets of Sevan. However, as soon as the sun disappeared, the temperature dropped rapidly. Google Maps showed many hotels marked as "Open," but when I tried booking, one was closed, then another, and another. Already freezing, I entered a pharmacy to endure the situation better. Luckily, I found that Hotel "Sevano" accepts guests in winter. It was just 600 meters away, but by the time I arrived, I was completely frozen. The street was icy, the roadside snow reached nearly knee-high, and it was dark. I couldn’t even see the main entrance and had to climb over the fence with my bike (you can hear the desperation in the video). The hosts at "Sevano," Vano and his wife, shared stories of their adventures in Tbilisi as I thawed my toes and fingers. That night, it was -8°C at Sevan, with a FeelsLike temperature of -12°C according to my app.
In the morning, I planned to reach Vanadzor, thinking the icy roads wouldn’t let me go farther. In Vanadzor, I decided to push to Alaverdi before dark. In Alaverdi, I felt like reaching the border, and from Sadakhlo, I thought, “Only 70 km left to Tbilisi.” This way, I rode 237 km on the fifth day. The most dangerous part of the journey was the road from Marneuli to Kvemo Teleti—narrow and filled with drivers overtaking recklessly despite the centerline, creating hazardous situations. I had to step off the road and dismount my bike several times to avoid danger. As for Armenia—I’ll definitely go back, and I recommend you visit too! You can experience this journey more vividly through the videos I recorded along the way. For my next trip, I must have a front camera—I missed capturing many amazing downhill moments:
Date: 2024-07-05
Author: Mar Mikhelidze
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